I think the Auberge de Tourrettes must’ve been closed when I arrived in France. As I was keen to try out all the eating establishments when I first lived in the village and I can’t remember eating there, I can only assume it was one of quite a few restaurants and bars which had seen better days.
Then there was a hive of activity a few years later when it was obvious that someone had taken it over. The outside got a coat of paint, the inside was remodelled and the garden was landscaped. Within a few months it became the ‘in place’ to eat. All the ladies would have their lunches there and in the evenings it would be quite busy with those who wanted something a bit better than the tourist stuff they serve down in the backstreets of the village.
Over the next few years, it became a favourite place for J and I to have a nice lunch. At €20 for a three course, exquisitely cooked meal, it was great value when you compared the food on offer at the other establishments. The €6 difference for the lunch menu (between it and the other places) was more than compensated for by the pristine white linen tablecloths and the good service. It was also one of only a few of the eateries which had an outside terrace and a great view.
So when J and I were deciding on a venue for our wedding reception in 2007, it was something of a no brainer. We had become quite good friends with Sandra the manageress and we knew that, carefully chosen, the food would be outstanding and the service would be impeccable. We weren’t disappointed. The day was a triumph with the highlight being the 5 hour lunch.
J and I continued, along with many of our friends, to frequent the Auberge but as time passed the portion size became smaller and smaller until we stopped going. Along with an increase in the prices, it ceased to become the ‘place to go’. Sandra was informed about the problem but I assume the Danish owner had decided to make a bigger profit irrespective of the feedback from regulars.
A couple of our friends, John and Sandie, continued to give the Auberge their custom however and invited us to join them on Saturday evening at the ‘under new ownership’ establishment. We’d heard that it was even more expensive than before and that incredibly, the portions were even smaller, but in a perverse way we wanted to see this for ourselves, so we accepted our friends’ invitation.
From 2 or 3 fixed price menus and an a la carte list under its old guise, the ‘new’ Auberge offered us two fixed price menus - €35 and €40 – that’s it. As the €35 menu was fish based, we all chose the higher priced meal with Sandie and I preferring a starter of foie gras from the cheaper menu rather than the shellfish starter on the €40 menu.
An ‘amuse bouche’ (mouth pleaser) of St Jacques was offered but bizarrely St Jacques was the starter on the menu, hence why Sandie and I had changed ours. I declined and was offered a microscopic piece of raw marinated salmon which was quite delicious.
The starter of foie gras was served in a block which made it somewhat difficult to eat and was served with a few slivers of fennel which disappeared with the first mouthful. This left the foie gras with no accompaniment to offset its very rich taste. J and John’s St Jacques, whilst looking a very small portion, was stated to be delicious.
The main course was lamb. When it was presented, I made a comment about ‘another amuse bouche’ as it was so small. We waited for the vegetables but amazingly they were already on the plate. One slice of potato about the size of half a potato wedge and three quarter inch cubes of turnip! To show you how small it was, John started telling a short story which took about 3 minutes from start to finish and by the time he had uttered his last syllable, I had finished! It was incredible.
Dessert was a bit better with 4 small dishes of various flavours appearing at the table for each diner. Interesting but at that stage I was ready for a full dish of bread and butter pudding with lashings of custard!
Had McDonalds not been so far away I would have headed there as soon as we’d left the Auberge. It’ll be a while before I return but I believe J is back there on Tuesday for a ‘girls night out’ so I’ll await reports if it is any better.
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